Top Irish Skin Expert reveals The September Skin Hangover and What This Means

The tan may be fading, but for many people the clearest evidence of summer is only now becoming obvious in the mirror: darker freckles, sharply defined brown spots, or larger patches across the cheeks, forehead and upper lip.

It is what leading Irish skin expert Eavanna Breen calls the ‘September skin hangover’, and her warning is simple: do not assume every brown mark is the same, and do not reach immediately for the strongest acid, retinoid or laser treatment.

A major international study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology surveyed 48,000 adults across 34 countries and found that one in two reported at least one pigmentary disorder. Solar lentigines, commonly known as sun spots or age spots, were the most frequently reported at 27.5%, followed by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation at 14.8% and melasma at 10.9%.

“This is the point in the year when people suddenly notice things that were not nearly as obvious a few months ago,” says Eavanna, Clinical Director of the Eavanna Breen Skin and Laser Clinic in Dublin 2. “The biggest mistake is assuming they are all the same thing and immediately trying to erase them. A defined sun spot and melasma are very different problems. Treating pigmentation more aggressively does not automatically give a better result, and the wrong approach can aggravate the skin.”

What we often describe as ’CelticSkin’ can put us at a disadvantage in the summer sun. More than 75% of the Irish population is estimated to fall into Fitzpatrick skin types I and II, fair skin tends to burn easily and tan poorly. With less protective melanin, we’re particularly vulnerable to cumulative UV damage, which can show up as pigmentation and premature ageing, but importantly, also increases our risk of developing skin cancer.

You wore SPF. So why does the pigmentation look worse?

Pigmentation is not necessarily the result of one afternoon when sunscreen was forgotten. UV exposure accumulates over a lifetime, including the ordinary exposure picked up while walking, driving, sitting near windows and going about a normal day. Sunscreen substantially reduces exposure when used correctly, but it does not make skin completely immune to UV.

“What appears in September may be the visible result of repeated exposure over the summer, not one dramatic burn,” explains Eavanna. “The skin remembers all of those ordinary days. By the end of summer, existing pigment can look darker and previously subtle areas can become much easier to see.”

The brown marks are not all the same

Solar lentigines, freckles, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma can all look like areas of increased pigment, but they do not share exactly the same causes or treatment plan.

Solar lentigines: are flat, defined areas associated with cumulative sun exposure, often appearing on the face and hands.

Freckles: can deepen with sun exposure and fade again when exposure falls.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: can remain after inflammation or injury, including acne, irritation and some cosmetic procedures.

Melasma: usually presents as larger, often symmetrical patches. UV is only part of the picture: hormones, inflammation and visible light may also contribute.

“If someone comes into my clinic with pigmentation, my first question is not ‘What laser are we going to use?’ It is ‘What type of pigmentation is this?’,” says Eavanna. “That assessment has to come before correction.”

The protection gap many people with melasma miss

For melasma-prone skin, the SPF number alone may not tell the whole story. Research has shown that visible light can contribute to pigmentation, while tinted sunscreens formulated with iron oxides can provide additional visible light protection. In a double blind randomised trial, people with melasma using sunscreen that protected against both UV and near visible light improved more over eight weeks than those using comparable UV protection alone.

“For somebody struggling with melasma, I no longer talk only about the SPF number on the bottle,” says Eavanna. “Broad spectrum UV protection remains non negotiable, but visible light protection matters too. That is why I often recommend a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides for pigmentation prone skin.”

Pigmentation is visible. Some sun damage is not.

A brown mark is not, by itself, evidence of skin cancer. However, the same cumulative UV exposure that contributes to uneven pigment and premature skin ageing can also damage DNA in skin cells and increase skin cancer risk. UV also accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin, affecting firmness, texture and lines over time.

“I do not want people to think pigmentation means skin cancer, because it does not,” Eavanna stresses. "I do want them to understand that sun exposure is cumulative and the brown spots are not the only possible legacy. Any new, changing, bleeding, itching or otherwise suspicious mark should go to a GP or dermatologist before anyone considers cosmetic treatment.”

“Before spending money on another brightening serum or booking a treatment because it worked for somebody else, find out what you are actually treating,” advises Eavanna. “At the clinic, we carry out a complete post summer skin audit, looking at pigmentation, redness, texture, hydration and the health of the skin barrier. From there, we can identify what needs treatment, what should be left alone and what needs to be referred to a GP or dermatologist. You leave with a clear, personalised plan rather than months of expensive trial and error, and that can be the difference between improving pigmentation and inadvertently making it worse.”

Eavanna Breen’s four-step September skin reset

1. ASSESS IT

Look at what has actually changed: pigment, redness, texture, hydration or sensitivity. A professional skin consultation can help distinguish different cosmetic concerns, but any suspicious lesion must be medically assessed by a GP or dermatologist first.

2. PROTECT IT

Continue a broad spectrum, high protection SPF every day and use it correctly. For melasma-prone skin, Eavanna recommends considering a tinted formula containing iron oxides for added visible light protection. Her clinic recommendation is AlumierMD Sheer Hydration Versatile Tint.

3. REPAIR IT

If skin feels dehydrated, tight or reactive, prioritise barrier repair before adding multiple acids or retinoids. Eavanna recommends Skinmade personalised moisturiser, which is formulated following an individual skin measurement to address hydration and lipid needs. You can book a free skin test to have your own personalised moisturiser made here. 

4. CORRECT IT

Only once the skin has been assessed and its barrier is settled should correction begin. Depending on the concern, IPL may be considered for suitable excess pigmentation, Laser Genesis for redness and vascular changes, and microneedling for texture and collagen remodelling. Melasma requires a separate, individualised management plan. The treatment type, timing and course should be decided case by case.

Why the quick-fix promise is the wrong one

Pigmentation is frequently a long term concern. In the 34 country study, 69.5% of respondents who reported a pigmentary disorder said it had been present for at least five years.

“People are often sold the idea that one product or one treatment will erase pigmentation forever,” says Eavanna. “Sometimes we achieve excellent results, but particularly with melasma, the honest goal is often control and long term management rather than chasing a permanent quick fix. September is the moment to pause, assess the skin and build the right plan.”

Eavanna Breen is a leading Irish skin professional and Clinical Director of the Eavanna Breen Skin and Laser Clinic at 50 Lower Leeson Street, Dublin 2. The clinic provides personalised skin consultations alongside advanced skin, laser and light-based treatments.

Visit eavannabreen.ie for more.

Slán go fóill.